Madrid is beautiful and open and vibrant perfect for family travel. We were in Madrid in 2017 with a 2.5 year old and 4 year old an enjoyed every minute. We stayed on the east side of the city, near the famous tapas restaurants, the magnificent Prado museum, and Retiro park. Here are some family-friendly sights and activities you might consider on your next visit to Madrid.
Prado Museum
Arguably the greatest collection of European paintings anywhere (yes, even compared to the Louvre). As always, it helps to have some favorites prepared beforehand and you can expect some heavyhitters: Velazquez, Goya, Bosch, Fra Angelico, Raphael, Rubens, El Greco, Titian, and our family fav Albrecht Dürer. The museum itself is also beautiful. Open and airy if quite strict on no photos policy(!).
#1 on your list should be Las Meninas by Velazquez, not least because some argue it might be the greatest painting of all time. They make a strong case. Kids love it. We loved it. Las Meninas is enormous, not too abstract, has a princess and a dog in it, and plenty of hidden secrets too.
Come prepared to discuss with the kids the use of “3s” and the idea of a painter painting a painter painting a painter.
Start here:
Young kids (<7) might be interested in trip to the library for Katie and the Spanish Princess (picture book) which includes a young Margaret Theresa with whom Katie gets into mischief.
Bigger kids might be more interested in the strangeness of Hieronymus Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights or the goriness of Goya’s “black paintings” or his political Third of May, 1808. Goya is a great opportunity to talk to older kids (10+) about the realities of war and how the arts capture these moments in our history. (There are guns and some violence shown, you may want to stay clear with little kids; especially for the gruesome Saturn.)
Retiro Park
As if placed nearby solely for the reflection (and perhaps recovery) of a Prado experience, Retiro Park is just a block or two away. Large and sprawling, there are fountains and a playground as well as its iconic lake. The lake is perfect for taking a load off or just strolling or for a fun boat ride. For just €6 you can rent a rowboat for an hour. It was one of our favorite activities of the whole trip (we came back and did it again a couple days later). Pack a picnic lunch and wave to the lovey couples as the cruise by.
On the north side just as you’re exiting the rowboat area, is a fun little park to visit and calibrate where to go next.
Thyssen and Reina Sofia
The other two major art museums are also worth considering. We loved the peaceful and interesting Thyssen and all its variety and there is no experience quite like seeing Picasso’s Guernica in person at the Sofia Reina. To prepare for the latter, be sure to check out the related Power of Art episode. Fantastic.
Tip: While visiting, or even simply walking by one of these two museums, be sure to pick up a Paseo de Arte pass. Admission includes all 3 major art museums and the skip-the-line feature will come in handy at the Prado.
Museo de Sorolla
Once again, a “2nd tier” experience is one of our most enjoyable and memorable. Joaquín Sorolla shows up in a few guidebooks and as a hometown boy has a gallery in the Prado but can still be easy to miss. Dan came across him in an old used art book and after some light research we knew it would be on our to-do list. A late 19th and early 20th century painter he regularly painted his children, often playing at the beach, in bright colorful works that are accessible for novices and great for kids. Tranquil landscapes seemingly painted outdoors as they occurred are cheerful and light.
The museum is the artist’s former residence; about 15 minute walk north from the Retiro park (take a cab, avoid the hilly climb and be there in 3). The entry garden is indicative of the entire experience. Relaxed but elegant and very family friendly. In just a few high-ceilinged rooms you see dozens of his beautiful paintings. We prepared the kids a bit by including some in their not-quite flashcards, but they quickly moved to other new paintings. Our daughter especially enjoyed the ones with children playing.
Royal Palace
First, be sure to take advantage of the wonderful little playground outside the palace. After a short trip from the apartment we let the kids play and run around with the little Spanish kids (on a school day?) to burn off some energy. The big kids might only use this park to have a bite to eat or you could take the opportunity to regroup before going into the palace.
The palace itself is gorgeous but we were in and out in under an hour. We had some Isabella and Ferdinand context but fancy rooms with fancy (old) furnishing left us just walking through. Next time I think we’ll come more prepared, maybe consider a local guide to better appreciate it.
Summary
Madrid is beautiful. We had a hot sun and cool breezes and walked everywhere. The people are kind and welcoming and loved the kids. Madrid also offers a launching point to Barcelona on the coast (3 hours by speed train) or, as we did, take an easy day trip to the serene and reverent Toledo.
talk soon,
Dan & Betsy
Family Discussion Topic: Are any of these Madrid sights of interest to family members? What would make it on to your itinerary?