By design, Sunday was meant to be an easy day. The original itinerary for today was another art market (near Montparnasse) in the morning if needed and a free walking tour of Montmartre in the afternoon. Easy days like this allow for a) some relaxation, b) a chance for an extra park or neighborhood exploring day, or c) make up for missed activities day.
We hadn’t actually missed any activities so far but we did want to give the art market another go.
Art market
We took a 15 metro ride to Montparnasse tower where the second weekly art market is located. Barely anyone was there but at least it wasn’t raining or snowing (super cold though so we were on a short timetable). Still, we bet it’s not a bad art market most of the year. We saw a perfect sketch of our apartment right above the Shakespeare & Co bookstore but when we inquired the woman was asking €250 for what was a very small drawing.
It was the ideal artwork for us and the trip and our wall back home but it was a bit too pricey. We regrettably moved on until we found another artist whose work we enjoyed very much and was larger yet less than half the cost of the woman’s drawing (in fairness her work must’ve taken hours, it was exquisite). The artist signed the work, gave us a description of the work and a short bio (in French) before wrapping it up quite securely in a cardboard tube. Success! French art for our house back home!!
Montmartre tour
Having never made it up the hill to Montmartre, this was a chance for us to see the neighborhood haunt of Vincent and artists before and after him. And, as have learned anytime you’re looking to better understand a neighborhood it’s much more enjoyable to have a local guide take you through. Otherwise (if you’re us) you’re just walking around looking at store fronts or trying to read maps and guidebooks the whole time. Local guides make the place come alive. They’re worth the extra money, especially when they are FREE like this tour with Discovery Walks was.
It’s a 20 minute drive from our apartment but we were able to take the metro north in about as much time. Typically free walking tours work like this: meet at designated location at designated time. Charming local guide introduces themself to everyone as the group grows. At the designate time the guide leads the group through a certain themed route and at the end optional tips for the hardworking guide.
That is exactly how this one went. Our guide had a pink vest and was on time, courteous and when there was a rather large group, splits half off to go with his associate (also pink vest, licensed local guide). Our group of 8 stuck with the tall bearded man who grew up in Paris. We started across the street at the Moulin Rouge and walked up the hills of Montmartre past shopping and old living quarters of very famous artists.
Many of the streets were idyllic streets with world famous pastries and snacks we took time to stop at. The guide narrated easily, asking questions, making connections to other Paris sights. One particular connection the kids enjoyed was when he pointed out a second windmill (already a win for our kids) as the scene that is captured in Renoir’s Bal du moulin de la Galette earlier in the week, a favorite painting of our daughters we’d seen at the d’Orsay museum. He pulled out a copy of it and explained what was happening at the time and how the painting reflected the activities experienced by these great artists whose work we were lucky enough to see. Very fun.
Our guide was very patient and kind with the kids (ours were the ones ones on the tour). It was on the moderate-to-strenuous side as we were carrying both kids on our backs by the end but it was a wonderful experience. The 2 hour tour concluded at the Sacré-Cœur, which the kids keep calling “the three domes,” where he took pictures for people, answered questions and gave us some prime photo spots for the “three domes.” The group gave him a round of applause and his tips (I think we gave €30) so he probably made it out of there with a decent couple hours worth. Definitely worth it. Would do it again next time.
talk soon,
Dan & Betsy
Lessons learned:
- art markets, in better weather, are a must do for our family
- FREE walking tours continue to be most enjoyable experiences and well worth scheduling
Full disclosure: We back date our on-trip posts for two reasons. First, to give you a better picture of the day-to-day family travel experience, and most importantly, when we travel as a family we are focused on our own activities and experiences. Upon return home we gather up notes and pictures and then post. Hope you’ll understand:).