Jet lag is here. We fell asleep pretty easy after a fun-filled day but Betsy and our daughter were wide awake at 1am reading books and playing upstairs while the boys slept. When Dan and our son woke up around 7am the girls had only been asleep for an hour or two so they made and ate breakfast, bundled up, and went exploring.
The boys walked along the Seine and over to the Notre Dame across the street where they found a small playground. Our son made a new friend while Dan sat and watched the world go by. Our son made a few more friends on the other side of the Notre Dame before going back to the apartment and reading/playing for a couple hours until the girls woke up around 11am.
With “½” the day gone we decided to push our planned trip to the d’Orsay museum to the evening and go to a fancy restaurant for lunch and try some new food. (Luckily, we planned well for the d’Orsay in our itinerary as it stays open late, 21:45 on Thursdays so not a huge sacrifice.) The restaurant was one we had scoped out beforehand and included in our map (Rick Steves recommended, $$$, and near the apartment).
The kids wanted to try snails and Dan wanted to re-experience the duck he remembered from our 2012 trip. Turns out the the kids just wanted somebody to eat snails. And what we ordered in French was instead some kind of soup with snails in it. Not a huge win for Dan. To double the injury the kids ate almost all of his duck, which was delicious. Having seen a friendly duck hanging out on the wall near the Seine an hour before Dan thought our son might have some aversion to eating one now but not today. It was 13:30 and we had the restaurant almost to ourselves and the kids did pretty well. Thank goodness for free bread.
After some Greek food for dinner (take out style from a restaurant-heavy area two streets away) we took a short bus ride to the d’Orsay. We were ready for “Vincent,” Manet, Monet, and maybe some dancing with Renoir.
Museum passes got us in quickly and easily. Checked winter coats but kept portable art stations for the kids. Our strategy was a few big paintings downstairs before going straight to the Impressionists a couple floors up. Everyone was a little tired but excited to be in this train station-turned museum masterpiece. In the main gallery Betsy and the kids grabbed a seat and started sketching statues while Dan made the quick rounds looking for some of his must-sees. After Dan reported back, our son asked if he could see some of the works. Our daughter was still working on her sketches so the boys went out to see some of the early modern pieces.
From Dan:
We [our son and I] were talking about drawing people (“portraits”) and drawing outside scenery (“landscapes”) when he notices Manet’s Olympia at the far end of a gallery. He recognized it (from art book, not-quite flashcards perhaps?) and asked if he could draw it. I looked around and the gallery was pretty empty so I told him he could sit in the corner, out of everyone’s way, and draw it for a few minutes. Then we’ll go get the girls and head upstairs. “Ok, dad” he said.
Head up to see the painting, head down to draw. Up and down for a few minutes and no one else is around so I tell him to come sit close and I’ll stand next to him so nobody steps on him.
A few people com and view the Manet, some listening to audio guides, some taking close looks at it. Most see him drawing and smile at me in support. After 15 minutes he’s still drawing. Talking about color choices and going closer to see the flowers.
By now, there is a small crowd growing behind him with the occasional passerby giving him a pat on the head for encouragement. By the time I take the picture above, there must be 20 people behind me. A wall of very considerate and gracious people allowing a 5 year old boy to sketch one of the masters. Maybe they were tickled that he was drawing what was obviously a prostitute or maybe they just appreciated a young person taking an interest in art. Either way, it might be the highlight of the trip (for me).
The boys returned with a proud son showing his mom his artwork and the everyone made the trip back so our son could explain his process and his work. Very proud moment for all of us.
Of course, our 2.5 hours at the d’Orsay had just begun! We moved on to Vincent, Monets, and the dancing Renoir our daughter was so excited about. We stayed almost until closing. What a great way to end the day.
talk soon,
Dan & Betsy
Lesson learned:
- watch trying too many new foods at once, pricey
- portable art stations = beautiful memories
- d’Orsay late hours had far less crowds, will do again!
Full disclosure: We back date our on-trip posts for two reasons. First, to give you a better picture of the day-to-day family travel experience, and most importantly, when we travel as a family we are focused on our own activities and experiences. Upon return home we gather up notes and pictures and then post. Hope you’ll understand:).