Now that the major cost (family flights) of our trip to France is done, we move onto the second most expensive: our apartment in Paris.
We look at apartment rentals in two main ways:
- outside the apartment (neighborhood)
- inside the apartment (spaces, character, amenities)
Sometimes the priority flips where neighborhood is secondary, and depending on your destination, your family travel principles, and the age of your kids, it might be different for your family.
In 2012 we stayed in a 5th floor studio just outside of the Marais district in the 10th arrondissement. No kids then, just Dan and Betsy 6 months pregnant. So, while we dealt with a pull out couch for a bed (not too bad), we did have a small but separate kitchen and the typically modest bathroom with tiny shower and tiny wash machine. In 2014 with an 18 mo old and Betsy again 6 months pregnant we decided to try another studio but this time in the Latin Quarter. (Our son slept in the bed with us in the one bed for the few days we were there).
Let’s compare the two previous Paris experiences then get into our latest search:
| Dan + Pregnant Betsy (2012) | Dan, pregnant Betsy, 18 mo old son (2014) | |
| neighborhood | 10th aron. just outside of Marais | Latin Quarter |
| local amenities | hip but chill neighborhood, young people, affordable restaurants, easy walk to Marais, Bastille, Jewish Quarter | groceries a few minutes away, Jardin de las Plantas, walkable to Seine |
| host | especially helpful welcome guide for restaurants and less know sights | standard but helpful |
| transportation | 3 min to metro, downstairs to corner bakery, restaurants | 5 min to metro, a bit more walking required locally |
| apartment amenities | artsy style with spectacular balcony wash machine, separate kitchen | nearly hotel room but with mini kitchenette (no space for son to lay) |
| regrets? | 5 flights of stair with pregnant lady? Maybe, but Betsy was superhuman pregnant, walking all day long like a champ | location 15 min walk to anything, limited food options close to food and art markets but did not go wouldn’t try to “save a few bucks” next time |
| Cost | 7 nights @ $169/nt + fees = $901 | 3 nights @ $153/nt + fees = $515 |
Taking some of the Paris-specific lesson above as well as the Italy 2016 and Spain 2017 trips we were on the hunt for an economical but centrally located apartment. Same wash machine, Wifi, kids room requirements as before but now we are really looking at the neighborhood experience since we’ll be able to eat out a bit more and the kids can carry themselves.
Paris 2018 apartment
The kids will be 5 and 3 so a bit more aware of their surroundings and of the activities we have planned. Dan has created a Google map (details coming soon) of all the sights we wish to see and new for this trip: as many parks and green spaces as possible. Picnics, playing, and letting off steam before and after big sights or activities. Getting back to the magnificent playground at Luxembourg gardens will really pay off this time. We’re also looking to continue our post-dinner family walks from our normal home routine.
Last, we’re going to try a little something new, theme-wise. We’ve done antiquities and super famous art at the Louvre and Impressionism at the d’Orsay so we’re going to have an explicit second tier emphasis this trip. We won’t miss the big stuff but we will make a determined effort to better appreciate the smaller, more modest parts of the Paris itinerary. So far the top of that list is a deep dive into Gothic architecture which we know little to nothing about. This will include research and extra preparation for Notre Dame Cathedral and Sainte-Chapelle as well as some medieval context, perhaps at the Cluny museum, which we skipped the first two trips.
With that theme in mind, and with all the factors we discussed on family walks these past few months, we landed on a small 1 bedroom apartment in the “Ile de la Cite” area. We were looking at the Marais and wanted to keep it south towards the river for evening strolls and think we found a great place maybe even close enough to hear the bells of Notre Dame. Take a look at Airbnb’s overview of our neighborhood. Another great way to search and compare neighborhoods.
With an apartment reserved and a growing theme of the trip (i.e., second tier, Gothic architecture, medieval times), we are ready to finish our itinerary and get our resources in order.
talk soon,
Dan and Betsy
Family discussion topic: What is more important to members of your family: neighborhood amenities or apartment amenities?
What matters more to the parents? What matters more to the kids?