2016, Florence, Italy. 5 days into a 12-day trip.
Dan & Betsy, son, 3, daughter, 18 months, with 13 year old niece
We had just finished a fun, but claustrophobic climb to the dome of Florence’s Duomo (Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore) and Dan wanted to make a quick stop on at the Duomo museum behind the cathedral (Museo dell’Opera del Duomo). Our reservation to see the David wasn’t for another couple days so this was our first chance to for my son and daughter to see a Michelangelo sculpture in person. Our son had been learning about Michelangelo for months now at bedtime so this was a bit of a big deal for us. It was closing soon but perhaps we could hurry.
The Deposition was completed by an 80 year old Michelangelo and, as the story goes, he once tried to destroy it in a fit of frustration (a scene right out of Agony and Ecstasy). The work depicts Jesus being taken off the cross and sits right in the middle of an open space. (Notice how tall Jesus would be if he stood up. Notice also that the face of Nicodemus might be a portrait of the artist.)
We had the place to ourselves so we were able to walk around the sculpture to see all the details. Our 3 year old son was on Dan’s back and we were talking about how amazing it was someone could “break” a rock using tools and make it look like real life people. The “warning bell” rang telling us that it was almost closing time.
We had to hurry so when he asked to get closer to see the chisel marks Dan leaned in. There were no ropes or lines on the floor. No guards in the room. Good thing we practice the museum rules!
We returned to the front to look at the faces again.
“Which one is Michelangelo?” he asked.
“The one at the top.” Dan moves closer, careful not to lean over and risk touching it, of course.
“It’s too dark. I can’t see.”
“Hang on, pal. What about now? Can you see his face? [closing bell sounds again] We have to hurry. That noise means it’s almost time to leave.”
“That’s Michelangelo?”
“That his face. At least we think that. Dad read in a book that…”
“Sir. Please.” A young lady in uniform was in the doorway making a “back up” gesture at us.
It took a minute to realize the closing bell was actually Dan setting off the alarm. Repeatedly.
“Yes, of course. Scusi. Scusi.”
It was not particularly dramatic. We were not on the news. Not taken away in handcuffs. But for the man who gives the “we-follow-the-rules” speech before leaving the house and upon entry to each museum, it was not a proud moment. Perhaps giving Americans, tourists, and families a bad name. The exact opposite of our intentions.
One benefit of this “teachable moment” was to remind the kids “that’s why we must be respectful and we only look at the art. No touching.” “Or the lady will be mad at you, dad?” “Yes, or the lady will be mad at me.”
Our son had the good graces not to bring up the fact the was strapped to Dan’s back and had little choice in the matter.
Lesson learned by adults and kids alike: Even when we’re excited we must be careful and thoughtful of where we are.
Talk soon,
Dan & Betsy
Family Conversation topic: Did Michelangelo sneak himself into the sculpture below? Ask the kids why they think an artist might do something like that.
Here’s a close up of Nicodemus and a pic of Michelangelo from his tomb, also in Florence.
What do you think?
